Love at First Scent

The Atlas of Fragrance Notes

Thirty-three fragrance notes that turn up most often in Arabian and Arabian-inspired perfumery. We sort them not into women's and men's but by character: the same rose can be romantic or dramatic, oud majestic or quiet, musk tender or provocative.

For each note you will find what it is and where it comes from, and whether it is a natural raw material, an aroma molecule or an accord built from several materials. Take the associations and emotions as poetic language, not as guaranteed effects: everyone reads a scent in their own way.

Natural material
A fragrance material obtained directly from a plant or resin by distillation or extraction.
Aroma molecule
A substance made in the laboratory; on the label it hides behind the name of the note it creates.
Accord
A scent assembled from several materials so that it reads as a single note.

Flowers

Tenderness, allure and elegance

  • Damask rose

    Damask rose

    floral · velvety · honeyed

    Don't be fooled by the delicate petals. This lady can be dangerously seductive.

    Natural material Rosa × damascena

    Origin. A hybrid rose grown chiefly in Bulgaria, Turkey and Iran; its flowers are distilled into rose oil and extracted into absolute.

    The queen of perfumery flowers can be sweet, fresh, honeyed or faintly spicy. It is one of the most important materials in both traditional and contemporary perfumery. In Arabian-inspired scents it often meets oud, and its romantic face darkens beside it.

    What it reminds us of. Silk on bare skin, a meeting in a garden and a moment we would rather keep to ourselves.

    The emotion we associate with it. romance, tenderness, passion, confidence

    Goes well with. Oud Saffron Musk Patchouli Amber accord

    Where to find it. Kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 · Amouage Guidance · Khadlaj Rose Couture

  • Taif rose

    Taif rose

    floral · noble · radiant

    She doesn't need a crown. Everyone knows who has just walked in anyway.

    Natural material Rosa × damascena

    Origin. The thirty-petalled damask rose from the mountains around Taif in Saudi Arabia, grown at roughly 1,800 to 2,500 metres.

    It is picked by hand in the early morning over a few weeks in March and April and distilled straight away into rose oil and rose water. The scent is richly floral, fresh and softly honeyed. In the perfumery of the Arabian Peninsula it is more than an ingredient: it is a piece of local culture.

    What it reminds us of. Morning sun over a mountain garden, cool air and roses still covered in dew.

    The emotion we associate with it. nobility, joy, gentle romance

    Goes well with. Oud White musk Saffron Sandalwood Amber accord

  • Jasmine

    Jasmine

    heady · sweet · nocturnal

    By day it plays the innocent flower. After dark it makes no promises.

    Natural material Jasminum grandiflorum, J. sambac

    Origin. The white flowers of royal jasmine and sambac jasmine; the absolute is obtained by extraction, much of it in India.

    One of perfumery's most famous flowers. Alongside sweet, green and fruity tones it carries a faintly animalic undertone, which is why it never smells quite as innocent as it looks. It builds a full floral heart and sits well with woods and amber notes. Different species and extraction methods smell noticeably different.

    What it reminds us of. A warm night, an open window, distant music and a garden that only starts to smell after sunset.

    The emotion we associate with it. desire, intimacy, romantic tension

    Goes well with. Damask rose Sandalwood Vanilla Oud Musk Saffron

    Where to find it. Kayali Vanilla | 28 · Armaf Club de Nuit Oud · Amouage Guidance

  • Orange blossom

    Orange blossom

    sweet · soft · honeyed

    It looks like innocence itself. But it knows exactly how to get your attention.

    Natural material Citrus × aurantium

    Origin. The white flowers of the bitter orange tree; the absolute is made by extraction, not by distillation like neroli.

    A softly sweet, honeyed scent with citrus and slightly green tones. The absolute is fuller and warmer than the fresher neroli made from the same flowers. Orange blossom has long been tied to wedding customs.

    What it reminds us of. White curtains in a summer breeze, a sunlit courtyard and a first shy kiss.

    The emotion we associate with it. tenderness, optimism, closeness

    Goes well with. Neroli Jasmine Vanilla White musk Sandalwood Honey accord

    Where to find it. Kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 · Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Swiss Arabian Cardamom and Apple

  • Neroli

    Neroli

    fresh · sparkling · elegant

    Never in a hurry. And yet it always seems to have everything under control.

    Natural material Citrus × aurantium

    Origin. The essential oil steam-distilled from bitter orange flowers; Tunisia, Morocco and Egypt are the main producers.

    A fresh, green, citrus-floral scent with a slightly bitter undertone. It brings lightness and brightness to a perfume. It shares its plant with orange blossom but smells airier and less sweet. It is named after an Italian princess of Nerola who scented her gloves with it in the 17th century.

    What it reminds us of. Freshly laundered white shirts, a terrace by the sea and a morning with no worries yet.

    The emotion we associate with it. lightness, joy, calm confidence

    Goes well with. Orange blossom Cardamom Cedarwood White musk Damask rose

    Where to find it. Kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 · Arabian Oud Spanish Musk

  • Tuberose

    Tuberose

    heady · creamy · provocative

    She didn't come to blend in. And she has no intention of apologising for it.

    Natural material Agave amica (syn. Polianthes tuberosa)

    Origin. The waxy white flowers of a tuberous plant native to Mexico; botanists now place it among the agaves.

    One of perfumery's most assertive white flowers: densely floral, creamy, sweet, sometimes narcotic, with a green or animalic undertone. It never stays in the background. It is not an Arabian material, yet it feels at home in modern amber perfumes.

    What it reminds us of. A garden at night, heavy silk curtains and a party nobody wants to leave.

    The emotion we associate with it. boldness, passion, extravagance

    Goes well with. Jasmine Vanilla Sandalwood Musk Patchouli Amber accord

    Where to find it. Zimaya Sharaf Blend · Lattafa Khamrah

  • Ylang-ylang

    Ylang-ylang

    tropical · sweet · creamy

    One rule in life: everything important can be done more slowly. Seduction above all.

    Natural material Cananga odorata

    Origin. The yellow flowers of a tropical tree from South-East Asia; the oil is distilled mainly in the Comoros and Madagascar.

    A richly floral oil with sweet, creamy, fruity, spicy and even faintly banana-like shades. It gives floral compositions warmth and roundness.

    What it reminds us of. A tropical garden after rain, warm skin and a slow afternoon with nowhere to be.

    The emotion we associate with it. ease, joy, indulgence

    Goes well with. Jasmine Sandalwood Vanilla Patchouli Damask rose Musk

    Where to find it. Maison Alhambra Rose Origami

Woods and earth

Strength, firm ground and a touch of mystery

  • Oud (agarwood)

    Oud (agarwood)

    dark · resinous · majestic

    He never enters a room quietly. Yet he needn't raise his voice to be noticed.

    Natural material Aquilaria spp.

    Origin. The resin-soaked wood of Aquilaria and Gyrinops trees from South and South-East Asia.

    The tree only starts to produce its dark, fragrant resin in self-defence, after wounding and fungal attack. Depending on origin and processing, oud can be woody, balsamic, smoky, sweet, leathery or animalic. The real oil is rare and costly and the trees are protected under CITES, so most perfumes today work with an oud accord.

    What it reminds us of. The dark wood of an old palace, smoke rising to a high ceiling and someone whose presence we sense before they speak.

    The emotion we associate with it. respect, confidence, mystery

    Goes well with. Damask rose Saffron Frankincense Sandalwood Patchouli Amber accord

    Where to find it. Armaf Club de Nuit Oud · Khadlaj Rose Couture · Amouage Epic Woman

  • Sandalwood

    Sandalwood

    creamy · soft · calm

    No grand gestures. It simply holds you so well that you forget all the others.

    Natural material Santalum album

    Origin. Oil from the heartwood of sandalwood trees; the classic is Santalum album, traditionally associated with India, while Australian sandalwood is now grown on a large scale.

    A soft, smooth, creamy-woody scent that deepens a perfume without a single sharp edge. Santalum album is a threatened species and its oil is expensive, so perfumers often reach for synthetic sandalwood molecules.

    What it reminds us of. A cashmere jumper, warm hands, a quiet room and an embrace we don't want to leave.

    The emotion we associate with it. safety, calm, intimacy

    Goes well with. Damask rose Jasmine Vanilla Cardamom Musk Oud

    Where to find it. Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Lattafa Musk Mood · Amouage Guidance

  • Cedarwood

    Cedarwood

    dry · clean · assured

    It never shows off. Its confidence doesn't need an audience.

    Natural material Juniperus virginiana, Cedrus atlantica

    Origin. Oils from the wood of various conifers: most often junipers (Virginia and Texas ‘cedar’), less often true cedars such as the Atlas cedar.

    A clean, dry woodiness that often recalls a freshly sharpened pencil. Because several botanically different trees are involved, cedar never smells quite the same twice. It gives a composition its backbone and a firm woody base.

    What it reminds us of. A library full of old books, a perfectly cut suit and a house where everything has its place.

    The emotion we associate with it. stability, trust, quiet authority

    Goes well with. Vetiver Cardamom Pink pepper Neroli Musk Frankincense

    Where to find it. Kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 · Zimaya Happy Oud · Al Haramain Black Oud

  • Vetiver

    Vetiver

    earthy · smoky · refined

    Not complicated. Just not inclined to explain himself to everyone he meets.

    Natural material Chrysopogon zizanioides

    Origin. Oil from the roots of a tropical grass native to India; Haiti, India and Indonesia are the main producers.

    An earthy, woody, dry scent that can also be smoky, green or lightly citrusy, depending on where it comes from. It gives a perfume an elegant base. You will often find it in men's fragrances, though it works just as well in women's and unisex ones.

    What it reminds us of. The ground after the first storm, wet stones and someone unafraid to go their own way.

    The emotion we associate with it. independence, focus, restrained elegance

    Goes well with. Cedarwood Frankincense Cardamom Damask rose Patchouli

    Where to find it. Al Haramain Black Oud · Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco · Swiss Arabian Vetiver and Orange

  • Patchouli

    Patchouli

    earthy · dark · velvety

    It has a slightly dubious reputation. And honestly? It rather enjoys it.

    Natural material Pogostemon cablin

    Origin. Oil from the dried leaves of a herb in the mint family; more than 90% of it comes from Indonesia.

    An earthy, woody, herbal and balsamic scent, sometimes with a hint of chocolate. In amber perfumes it links the sweet materials with the darker ones. Depending on how it is processed it can smell raw or surprisingly smooth.

    What it reminds us of. Old velvet, a damp garden at dusk and a temptation too good to leave alone.

    The emotion we associate with it. desire, nostalgia, nonconformity

    Goes well with. Damask rose Oud Vanilla Labdanum Saffron Sandalwood

    Where to find it. Kayali Vanilla | 28 · Maison Alhambra Rose Origami · Khadlaj Oud Noir

  • Guaiac wood

    Guaiac wood

    smoky · balsamic · intimate

    It isn't trying to impress you. It just tells a story so well you don't want it to stop.

    Natural material Bulnesia sarmientoi

    Origin. Oil distilled from the heartwood of Bulnesia sarmientoi, a tree of the Gran Chaco in Paraguay, Argentina and Bolivia.

    A soft, sweetish-woody, balsamic scent with gentle smoke, like smouldering wood. Unlike sharper smoky notes it feels rounded, almost creamy. At room temperature the oil sets into a waxy mass, and the tree has been listed in CITES Appendix II since 2010.

    What it reminds us of. The last embers in the fireplace, a glass of something good and a long conversation that ended near dawn.

    The emotion we associate with it. nostalgia, closeness, calm, melancholy

    Goes well with. Vanilla Frankincense Sandalwood Leather accord Vetiver Amber accord

    Where to find it. Amouage Epic Woman · Orientica Oud Saffron · Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco

  • Cypriol (nagarmotha)

    Cypriol (nagarmotha)

    dry · earthy · rugged

    Don't ask where he came from. It's far more interesting to find out where he means to take you.

    Natural material Cyperus scariosus

    Origin. Oil from the rhizomes of a sedge that grows on marshy riverbanks in central India.

    Dry, earthy and woody, with a leathery, smoky undertone. Perfumers use it to build dark woody accords and oud-inspired compositions, giving them a rougher outline.

    What it reminds us of. Old leather maps, sand, shadows in narrow lanes and a road whose end we don't yet know.

    The emotion we associate with it. adventure, independence, resolve

    Goes well with. Oud Saffron Leather accord Patchouli Labdanum Frankincense

    Where to find it. Khadlaj Oud Noir

Spices

Temperament, passion and adventure

  • Saffron

    Saffron

    precious · spicy · captivating

    It knows what it's worth. And it has no intention of pretending to be on sale.

    Natural material Crocus sativus

    Origin. The dried red stigmas of the saffron crocus; each flower has only three and they are picked by hand.

    That is one reason it ranks among the world's most expensive spices. It smells dry, warm and spicy, sometimes faintly metallic, leathery or hay-like. In Arabian-inspired perfumery it forms a famous trio with rose and oud. Today, though, the saffron note in a perfume usually comes from aroma molecules, chiefly safranal and its relatives.

    What it reminds us of. Golden light on silk, a jewel hidden in a velvet box and the promise of an evening that won't be ordinary.

    The emotion we associate with it. distinction, anticipation, confidence

    Goes well with. Oud Damask rose Amber accord Leather accord Sandalwood Jasmine

    Where to find it. Zimaya Sharaf Blend · Amouage Guidance · Khadlaj Oud Noir

  • Cardamom

    Cardamom

    aromatic · fresh · piquant

    The kind of company that can turn an ordinary Tuesday into an adventure.

    Natural material Elettaria cardamomum

    Origin. The seeds of green cardamom, a plant native to India; it is also grown on a large scale in Guatemala.

    A fresh, spicy, lightly citrusy scent with a eucalyptus-like coolness and a warm finish. In Arab countries cardamom is traditionally added to coffee. It gives a perfume energy and a gentle piquancy without the bite of pepper.

    What it reminds us of. Freshly made Arabic coffee, the first conversation of the morning and an invitation that promises something interesting.

    The emotion we associate with it. curiosity, charm, hospitality

    Goes well with. Sandalwood Vanilla Oud Damask rose Cedarwood Neroli

    Where to find it. Maison Alhambra Rose Origami · Swiss Arabian Cardamom and Apple · Al Haramain Black Oud

  • Cinnamon

    Cinnamon

    sweet · warm · fiery

    Sweet at first sight. Turn up the heat a little, though, and the temper shows.

    Natural material Cinnamomum verum

    Origin. The inner bark of cinnamon trees; true cinnamon comes from Sri Lanka, the more common cassia mainly from China.

    Sweet, warm and piquant. Its typical smell comes from cinnamaldehyde, which makes up most of the bark oil. Perfumers work with natural oils as well as single molecules. With vanilla, woods and resins it makes warm, sometimes almost dessert-like compositions.

    What it reminds us of. A warm pudding, an autumn evening, candle flames and a kiss that lasted a little longer than planned.

    The emotion we associate with it. warmth, passion, nostalgia, joy

    Goes well with. Vanilla Tonka bean Oud Benzoin Tobacco accord Sandalwood

    Where to find it. Amouage Epic Woman · Rasasi Hawas Elixir · Lattafa Khamrah

  • Pink pepper

    Pink pepper

    sparkling · playful · piquant

    It never claimed to be after anything serious. You'll be thinking about it for a long time all the same.

    Natural material Schinus molle, S. terebinthifolia

    Origin. The dried pink berries of South American Schinus trees, relatives of cashew and mango; botanically it has nothing to do with true pepper.

    A fresh, lightly spicy, fruity scent that can recall citrus peel or a delicate resin. It most often opens a perfume, brightening floral and woody compositions alike.

    What it reminds us of. An unexpected smile across the room, a glass of fizz and a flirtation nobody is taking seriously yet.

    The emotion we associate with it. playfulness, joy, spontaneity

    Goes well with. Damask rose Neroli Cedarwood White musk Patchouli Amber accord

    Where to find it. Kayali Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom | 24 · Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Zimaya Happy Oud

  • Black pepper

    Black pepper

    sharp · energetic · bold

    It won't tiptoe around you. And that may be exactly why you get on so well.

    Natural material Piper nigrum

    Origin. Oil distilled from the dried fruits of Piper nigrum, a tropical vine native to southern India.

    Dry, spicy, woody tones. The oil smells fresher than the spice itself and has no burn: pungent piperine does not carry over in distillation. In a perfume it provides contrast to sweet, floral and creamy materials.

    What it reminds us of. Sharp morning air, a black leather jacket and a decision we no longer mean to put off.

    The emotion we associate with it. energy, courage, determination

    Goes well with. Vetiver Cedarwood Oud Frankincense Cardamom Sandalwood

    Where to find it. Al Haramain Black Oud

  • Clove

    Clove

    spicy · warm · nostalgic

    An excellent memory. Unfortunately also for things that were meant to stay forgotten.

    Natural material Syzygium aromaticum

    Origin. The dried flower buds of the clove tree, native to the Maluku Islands of Indonesia.

    A strongly spicy, warm, sweet scent with a slightly medicinal edge. That comes from eugenol, which makes up most of clove oil. A drop is enough in a perfume, or it drowns out everything else.

    What it reminds us of. An old wooden chest, a festive mood, spiced tea and memories we thought were long lost.

    The emotion we associate with it. nostalgia, warmth, familiarity

    Goes well with. Damask rose Cinnamon Vanilla Patchouli Labdanum Oud

    Where to find it. Al Haramain Black Oud

Resins and smoke

Ritual, stillness and time

  • Frankincense (olibanum)

    Frankincense (olibanum)

    resinous · citrusy · meditative

    It doesn't speak often. But when it does, you feel you ought to remember it.

    Natural material Boswellia sacra

    Origin. The resin of Boswellia trees, which hardens into pale tears after the bark is cut; it comes from southern Arabia and the Horn of Africa.

    For centuries it was traded from the south of the Arabian Peninsula, above all from Dhofar in Oman, and it is still burned at ceremonies and social gatherings. The oil smells fresh, citrusy, balsamic and only faintly smoky, quite unlike the resin smouldering on charcoal.

    What it reminds us of. An old stone courtyard, sunbeams cutting through smoke and a silence that carries weight.

    The emotion we associate with it. contemplation, respect, calm

    Goes well with. Oud Myrrh Cedarwood Vetiver Damask rose Labdanum

    Where to find it. Amouage Guidance · Khadlaj Rose Couture · Maison Alhambra Rose Origami

  • Myrrh

    Myrrh

    balsamic · bittersweet · thoughtful

    Thousands of years of experience behind her. And still no need to tell you everything she has seen.

    Natural material Commiphora myrrha

    Origin. The fragrant gum resin of thorny Commiphora trees from Somalia, Ethiopia and the south of the Arabian Peninsula.

    For thousands of years it was used in scent rituals, cosmetics and ceremonies, and in ancient Egypt in embalming too. It smells balsamic, earthy, warm and slightly bitter. It lends gravity to amber and resinous compositions.

    What it reminds us of. Old manuscripts, stone walls, dark gold and a story told for generations.

    The emotion we associate with it. reverence, gravity, melancholy, calm

    Goes well with. Frankincense Oud Labdanum Vanilla Sandalwood Benzoin

    Where to find it. Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco · Lattafa Khamrah

  • Benzoin

    Benzoin

    sweet · balsamic · comforting

    It won't tell you everything will be fine. It just makes it feel that way, at least for a while.

    Natural material Styrax tonkinensis, S. benzoin

    Origin. A balsamic resin from the bark of Styrax trees; Siam benzoin comes from Laos, Thailand and Vietnam, Sumatra benzoin from Indonesia.

    A sweet, warm scent reminiscent of vanilla, caramel or gently spiced wood. It rounds and softens a perfume and also works as a fixative. It is one of the cornerstones of amber accords.

    What it reminds us of. A warm blanket, lamplight, home-made biscuits and the feeling of being exactly where we should be.

    The emotion we associate with it. safety, cosiness, tenderness, contentment

    Goes well with. Vanilla Labdanum Cinnamon Sandalwood Tonka bean Myrrh

    Where to find it. Zimaya Sharaf Blend · Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco · Swiss Arabian Vetiver and Orange

  • Labdanum

    Labdanum

    ambery · dark · leathery

    It doesn't believe in love at first sight. It prefers moments that can't be forgotten.

    Natural material Cistus ladanifer, C. creticus

    Origin. A sticky dark resin from the leaves and twigs of Mediterranean rockroses.

    It smells warm, resinous, leathery and slightly sweet, with an animalic touch. It is said to have once been combed from the beards and coats of grazing goats; today it is obtained by boiling the leaves and twigs. It is the heart of the classic amber accord.

    What it reminds us of. Sun-warmed skin, antique furniture, amber-coloured light and a long look that is hard to dodge.

    The emotion we associate with it. desire, attraction, closeness

    Goes well with. Vanilla Benzoin Oud Patchouli Leather accord Myrrh Damask rose

    Where to find it. Amouage Guidance · Amouage Interlude Man · Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco

  • Opoponax

    Opoponax

    resinous · sweetish · warm

    He always has a story. And you never know whether it really happened or he has just made it up.

    Natural material Commiphora guidottii

    Origin. The fragrant gum resin of Commiphora guidottii from Somalia and Ethiopia, also known as sweet myrrh.

    Softer and sweeter than classic myrrh, with warm balsamic and spicy shades. It inherited its name by mistake: it originally belonged to the Mediterranean herb Opopanax chironium, which is not used in perfumery. It gives amber compositions a warm resinous base.

    What it reminds us of. An old woven carpet, a room lit by dozens of candles and a story someone told us at bedtime.

    The emotion we associate with it. nostalgia, cosiness, familiarity

    Goes well with. Myrrh Benzoin Vanilla Labdanum Sandalwood Cinnamon

    Where to find it. Amouage Interlude Man

Sweet, soft and intimate notes

The scents we let closest to the skin

  • Vanilla

    Vanilla

    sweet · creamy · balsamic

    Everyone thinks they know her inside out. Until they find out how many faces she has.

    Natural material Vanilla planifolia

    Origin. The pods of a tropical orchid native to Mexico and Central America; Madagascar is now the largest grower.

    The typical aroma only develops in the pods during several months of curing and drying. Vanilla is sweet, creamy and balsamic, sometimes with a woody or faintly smoky touch. In perfumes it is mostly represented by vanillin and related molecules. Next to oud, resins and dark woods it smells more grown-up.

    What it reminds us of. Warm skin, silk sheets, a pudding shared by two and an evening we aren't ready to end.

    The emotion we associate with it. tenderness, safety, pleasure, romance

    Goes well with. Oud Sandalwood Tonka bean Benzoin Cinnamon Labdanum Tobacco accord

    Where to find it. Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Lattafa Musk Mood · Kayali Vanilla | 28

  • Tonka bean

    Tonka bean

    almondy · velvety · alluring

    Sweet and unassuming on the first date. By the second you know exactly why you came back.

    Natural material Dipteryx odorata

    Origin. The seeds of Dipteryx odorata, a tree of northern South America: black, wrinkled and brown inside.

    It smells like a blend of vanilla, almond, hay and mild tobacco. Behind that is coumarin, first isolated from tonka in 1820 and synthesised since 1868; perfumers also use it on its own. It gives a perfume softness and gourmand warmth.

    What it reminds us of. Almond pastries, soft velvet, the dim light of a hotel bar and one last drink before leaving.

    The emotion we associate with it. comfort, attraction, warmth

    Goes well with. Vanilla Sandalwood Cinnamon Tobacco accord Amber accord Patchouli

    Where to find it. Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Kayali Vanilla | 28 · Zimaya Sharaf Blend

  • Musk

    Musk

    intimate · warm · animalic

    No need for big words. The most interesting things in its company happen up close anyway.

    Aroma molecule

    Origin. Originally the secretion of a gland of the male musk deer; today almost exclusively synthetic molecules.

    Musk deer are protected under CITES and real musk has all but vanished from perfumery. A whole family of synthetic musks has replaced it: some smell of clean skin or laundry, others warm, sweet or animalic. Musk holds a privileged place in Arabian perfumery and gives compositions their softness.

    What it reminds us of. Another person's closeness, the warmth of their skin and a scent we remember long after the embrace.

    The emotion we associate with it. intimacy, desire, closeness

    Goes well with. Damask rose Oud Jasmine Sandalwood Vanilla Amber accord

    Where to find it. Swiss Arabian Musk 01 · Kayali Vanilla | 28 · Zimaya Sharaf Blend

  • Amber accord

    Amber accord

    golden · warm · resinous

    It has a weakness for luxury. But it would rather invest in moments nobody forgets.

    Accord

    Origin. An accord, not a raw material: classically built from labdanum, benzoin and vanilla.

    Not to be confused with fossil amber, which is hardened tree resin, or with ambergris, a rare secretion of the sperm whale. It is a perfumer's idea of a warm, resinous, sweetish, long-lasting scent. Today the word amber also covers various synthetic molecules with characters of their own. Amber is also the newer name for the fragrance family once called oriental.

    What it reminds us of. The golden light of sunset, sun-warmed stones and an embrace that arrives at exactly the right moment.

    The emotion we associate with it. warmth, safety, grandeur, romance

    Goes well with. Oud Damask rose Saffron Vanilla Labdanum Patchouli Sandalwood

    Where to find it. Kayali Vanilla | 28 · Zimaya Sharaf Blend · Armaf Club de Nuit Oud

  • White musk

    White musk

    clean · soft · tender

    It doesn't need the whole room to notice. One person who comes close enough will do.

    Aroma molecule

    Origin. An umbrella term for clean-smelling synthetic musks, not one specific substance.

    It reads as clean, soft and powdery, like freshly washed linen or skin after a shower. In Arabian perfumery, white musk oils sold as musk tahara are popular; tahara means purity. Their composition and smell vary widely from maker to maker.

    What it reminds us of. Clean white sheets, skin after a shower, morning light and a touch that needs no reason.

    The emotion we associate with it. tenderness, calm, cleanness, trust

    Goes well with. Damask rose Neroli Orange blossom Jasmine Sandalwood Amber accord

    Where to find it. Lattafa Musk Mood

  • Honey accord

    Honey accord

    golden · sweet · waxy

    It's sweet. And it knows perfectly well that this may be its greatest danger.

    Accord

    Origin. An accord of aroma molecules and natural materials such as beeswax absolute.

    It can be softly floral, waxy and sweet, but also darker, animalic or slightly tobacco-like. It sits well in rich floral and amber compositions. Depending on its neighbours in the perfume it comes across as tender or decidedly dense.

    What it reminds us of. Golden afternoon sun, a drop of honey on the lips, a garden in bloom and a spell of sweet idleness.

    The emotion we associate with it. pleasure, tenderness, joy

    Goes well with. Damask rose Jasmine Vanilla Tobacco accord Oud Benzoin Sandalwood

  • Leather accord

    Leather accord

    dark · elegant · provocative

    It knows the rules perfectly. Which is exactly why it can afford to ignore a few.

    Accord

    Origin. An accord imitating the smell of tanned leather; no fragrance material is obtained from leather itself.

    It can recall a new jacket, fine suede or old book bindings. It used to be built on smoky birch tar; today's versions rely mainly on synthetic molecules and offer a far wider palette. With oud and saffron it forms one of the most typical combinations in Arabian-inspired perfumery.

    What it reminds us of. A perfectly fitting leather jacket, the inside of an old convertible, dark velvet and someone unafraid to break convention.

    The emotion we associate with it. confidence, courage, independence, elegance

    Goes well with. Oud Saffron Damask rose Labdanum Cypriol Vetiver Tobacco accord

    Where to find it. Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud Aswad · Rasasi La Yuqawam · Zimaya Happy Oud

  • Tobacco accord

    Tobacco accord

    warm · dry · charismatic

    A touch old-fashioned in his manners. But when he starts talking, you put your phone down of your own accord.

    Accord

    Origin. An accord recalling dried and fermented tobacco leaves, sometimes with a little tobacco absolute.

    It smells not of cigarette smoke but of a tobacco pouch: sweet, honeyed, herbal, earthy, now and then faintly smoky. It blends beautifully with vanilla, tonka, woods and resins.

    What it reminds us of. An old library, a leather armchair, dark wood and evening conversations with someone who knows how to tell a story.

    The emotion we associate with it. nostalgia, charisma, confidence, familiarity

    Goes well with. Vanilla Tonka bean Cinnamon Honey accord Oud Sandalwood Labdanum

    Where to find it. Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco · Afnan Tobacco Rush

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